Choosing wood for cooking fires

The wood you burn is an ingredient. It sets the heat, how long the fire lasts, and the taste of the smoke. Good fire cooking starts with dry, clean hardwood.

What makes a wood good for cooking?

Three things matter more than species:

Dryness. Wet or "green" wood wastes energy boiling off water, smoulders, and produces heavy, acrid smoke. The US EPA's Burn Wise program recommends burning only dry, seasoned wood with a moisture content of 20 percent or less.
Density. Dense hardwoods burn longer and leave a deep bed of embers, which is what you actually cook over.
Cleanliness. No paint, stain, glue, preservatives, or chemical treatments.

How to tell if wood is seasoned

Check	Seasoned wood	Green or wet wood
Ends	Darker, with cracks or splits radiating from the centre	Fresh-looking, few cracks
Weight	Noticeably lighter	Heavy for its size
Sound	Two pieces knocked together ring with a hollow "clack"	A dull thud
Bark	Loose, peels away easily	Tight to the wood
Moisture meter	20% or less on a freshly split face	Above 20%

An inexpensive moisture meter is the most reliable test. Split a piece and measure the fresh inner face, not the outside.

Woods commonly used for cooking

Flavour descriptions are subjective; these are the commonly reported characteristics.

Wood	Heat and burn	Smoke character	Commonly used for
Oak	Hot, long-burning, good embers	Medium, versatile	Almost everything
Hickory	Very hot	Strong, bacon-like	Pork, beef
Maple	Steady	Mild, slightly sweet	Poultry, vegetables
Ash	Hot, clean	Light	General cooking
Apple, cherry, pear	Moderate	Mild, fruity	Poultry, pork, fish
Mesquite	Very hot, fast	Strong, earthy	Quick grilling of beef

Use a strong-smoke wood sparingly with delicate food such as fish.

What you should never burn under food

Pressure-treated, painted, varnished, or stained wood.
Plywood, particleboard, and other glued products.
Pallets, unless they are clearly marked as heat-treated and you know they are clean; when in doubt, leave them out.
Driftwood, which can contain salt and absorbed contaminants.
Household rubbish, cardboard with print or plastic coatings.
Resinous softwoods such as pine and spruce for direct cooking. They are fine as kindling to start a fire, but let them burn away completely before food goes on.

Charcoal as a partner

Lump charcoal is wood that has already been burned down in low oxygen, so it gives a hot, clean fire quickly. A common approach is to cook over charcoal and add one chunk of hardwood at a time for smoke flavour.

Where your wood comes from

Moving firewood long distances can spread invasive insects and tree diseases. Buy or gather wood near where you will burn it, and follow local rules on gathering in parks.

Limitations

Seasoning time depends on climate, species, and how wood is split and stacked; many hardwoods need at least six months to a year. Use a two-zone fire to manage whatever heat your wood gives you.